Globally, there has been a concerted effort in recent years to reimagine the future of gourmet cuisine and expand the boundaries of what it encompasses – by consumers, chefs and F&B brands alike. Consequently, there is a growing emphasis on incorporating the core principles of sustainability and wellness to elevate the gourmet dining experience. But this shift has also inspired chefs and brands to look inwards, to source locally, to work with native producers to revive cuisines and ingredients, and to be more mindful of their ecological footprint. One heartening outcome is the revival of millets – the indigenous, hardy, drought-resistant and nutritious grains that virtually disappeared from Indian fields in the 1960s. The government-led campaign to promote both the cultivation and consumption of millets has not only made consumers more aware about the benefits of these grains but also challenged chefs and culinary experts to elevate the humble millet into the realm of the extraordinary.
Crafting consciousness
The United Nations’ clarion call to declare 2023 as the International Year of Millets has been pivotal in raising awareness about the nutritional benefits of millets as well as the myriad environmental benefits of millet farming. With the climate crisis looming large on the horizon, shifting to millets could potentially save India 50 million metric tons of greenhouse gas emissions and 300 billion cubic meters of water each year, reveals data from the Centre for Study of Science, Technology and Policy in Bengaluru. As a nation, India has assumed a leading role in the millets revolution by initiating a cultural and agricultural revival – the country currently produces 41 per cent of the world’s millets output, and millets have been identified as the special agricultural product for India by the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations in collaboration with the Government of India.
In their second coming, however, millets are donning a far more sophisticated avatar – one that elevates them from their roots as ‘poor men’s food’ to a gourmet alternative that features on some of the most exclusive menus in the world. Contributing in large part to this development is the shift in mindset amongst Indian culinary tastemakers who are now returning to their roots and heirloom recipes. From salads to upma, bread to cake, pav to pasta, millets are being reinterpreted in hitherto unimaginable ways.
Health with a tasty twist
The response from consumers, has been heartening. Consumers today are interested in not only the nutritional content of the foods they consume but also the histories and cultural legacies that unfold with each bite. Even as they begin to explore new ways to incorporate millets into their everyday diets, they are also intrigued by the numerous possibilities that such a shift unfolds, especially in the realm of gourmet food. Unlike rice or wheat, millets have the advantage of being the closest to their truest form – with the least amount of interventions or modifications. Their high fibre content makes them conducive to a healthy gut biome, while the unique texture and taste of these grains keeps consumers coming back for more – for instance, breads made of finger millet or ragi have a beautiful nutty flavour, while foxtail millet can make cookies crunchier. Taking this adaptation a step forward are local breweries, who have begun releasing millet-based ales and beers. This versatility makes millets another standout star of the conscious shift, raising them to the coveted status of super-grains.
As the gourmet segment paces itself for the next big step in its evolutionary timeline, it seems inevitable that millets will occupy a starring role. Whether in terms of accommodating varied consumption preferences, such as gluten-free diets, or the sheer delight of culinary novelty and ingenuity, millets represent a tremendous opportunity for the F&B domain.
By Ms. Shivani Sharma, Chefpreneur and Founder of Gourmestan
